India. What can I say about this country? I both love it and hate it. There are so many incredible, beautiful and almost magical things about this place that it’s overwhelming. Yet there are so many other things that let this fantastic country slip away from what it could be. But that is what makes it India, and without those things it would be a different place. Here’s what I think about it.

The country throws a lot at you. To the point where you’re pretty exhausted by it. It’s hot, loud and smelly. People in the street push so much that they don’t take no for an answer until you’ve said it three times, and even if you’ve just got out of a tuk tuk or a taxi they will still try to get you to go somewhere else! But you can’t blame them for their persistence. They are amazingly resilient people who don’t get enough credit for what they do (the genuine people anyway). They do what they have to do to survive and don’t give up, whether that’s following you in a tuk tuk to try and get your custom or shouting you from across the street to go into their shop. It’s admirable, if mildly annoying.

Although it does take some getting used to. It’s difficult not to end up suspecting everyone, even if they’re genuinely trying to help, because there are so many scams. Taking you to shops where they get commission is the big one, they prey on tourists not knowing where they are going. And they almost always call to confirm your location if you’ve booked an Uber or Ola – the location is on the app!! Either that or drivers just don’t turn up sometimes. Or when they do they don’t have a clue where to go. I’ve spent so much time directing drivers where to go using Google maps, and even when you show them they can’t read it. But again, it’s part of the beauty of the country. And you get to see more of the place that way using the long way round 😉

There have been some interesting and funny sights along the way. The other day I saw someone selling crisps off a washing line. And motorbike riders tend to carry their helmets rather than wear them, unless they spot a cop up ahead, in which case they wear it until they’re out of sight. There’s not really any seat belts in the back of taxis and motorbikes ride around with no lights on. The list goes on but you get the idea..

Now onto the shops. Wow, their customer service is either shoddy or the best I’ve ever experienced. In some shops it’s hard to get them to even notice you’re there, but in others they will bend over backwards to help you out. Even calling you sir. And there’s so many people working in one shop here!! You’ll walk into some shops and five people will stare at you until you tell them what you’re after. Even if you explain that you just want to browse. Getting a receipt is an interesting experience too. Once you pay you get an ‘ordered’ receipt, then it’s stamped, then a ‘delivered’ receipt, then it’s stamped, and they still check it on the way out of the store – all for a £2 book!! And don’t take a bag into the shop, they will cable tie it up so you can’t nick anything!

There’s a real culture to also not care about the environment, with people throwing rubbish everywhere. The side of the road is littered (pun intended) with crap, and men taking a piss on or next to it doesn’t really help the situation. Some rivers are the same, even their holy river Ganges. It’s been pretty frustrating to see and it’s a real shame that such a populated country has this mentality. It needs to change to save our environment. At least the government has taken the first step by banning plastic bags, there’s still a long way to go though. I looked disapprovingly at one guy littering in Varanasi and his reply was “India dirty”. Yep, because of people like you, I told him.

It’s been interesting to experience the interest that some Indians have with western people. Being white is almost like being a celebrity here with so many people staring, taking photos and asking for selfies. It’s okay to be asked, but some just take photos and video you, like we experienced in Indonesia. Some people are genuinely excited to meet you, which is nice and we have met some really lovely people along the way. Kids will stare with their jaw on the floor as you walk past.

That is just some of what travelling around India has given me in memories, but there is so much more that I can’t explain. The colours, the smells, the noise, it really is an attack on your senses. But that’s what makes India. Change any of that and it changes the country. Yes, there’s so many things that they could do better, but try changing the minds of 1.3 billion people. I had to realise that from the start. If you don’t go along with it, then you’ll never be able to enjoy the place.

One piece of advice if you visit; watch out for the cows!!

P.S There’s just so much more that I couldn’t write about yet. Watch this space for more in the near future! Here’s a few photos in the meantime..